Casually perched smack dab in the middle of a slope in Cervinia, Italy (the resort on the other side of Zermatt, Switzerland) in the shadow of the grand dame of mountains – the Matterhorn – esteemed mountain restaurant Chalet Etoile seems to scream out “stop here, eat here, visit me!”
And of course, you do, having just made the long trip from Zermatt over the mountain, across some superhighway red pistes that are more like race tracks, up a gondola, up two chairlifts, down a slope, and through swarms of midday Italian skiers to get to this amazing mountain restaurant. But apart from its obvious location on this particular piste, there is nothing flashy about this mountain restaurant, nor is it obvious how to get there unless you know your way (over the mountain, across the pistes, up the gondola, up the chairlifts, down the slope, and through swarms of midday Italian skiers).
Well, I shouldn’t say nothing. Walking in, you are immediately taken aback by the loud chatter of Italian filling the room amidst a sea of colorful Cavalli-esque ski outfits. No doubt there are many other noteworthy restaurants scattered throughout the slopes of Zermatt, but perhaps it’s this boisterous Italian ambiance or the fashionable outfits that makes Chalet Etoile entirely blogworthy and worth the extra effort in getting there. Or perhaps its the pretty young Swedish waitresses (you would never guess that the founder and owner is actually Swedish), or the quality food, or the fact that you tucked your passport into hour ski jacket to get over here from Switzerland (just in case, you know), or the strong grappa that comes on the house with each bill that makes it special. Like the grappa, Chez Etoile is in every way intoxicating.
Intoxicating, but understated. This is less a place to people watch and more a place to steep yourself in the atmosphere, surrounded by good food, family, and friends. The decor is all traditional Alpine elegance and the food is 100% Italian-licious – and a nice departure from the meat, potatoes and cheese menu ubiquitous throughout the Swiss side of the mountain. The menu changes daily, but a recurring favorite is zuppa di pesce (fish soup) – a bowl of steamy, spicy broth brimming with mussels and langoustines. Mains might include tricolore pasta sampler, spaghetti with lobster or clams, beef steak, or a slow-roasted leg of pork. The wine menu is filled with local and Italian wines to counter the large helpings of food, and dessert boasts traditional Italian favorites like tiramisu or rich, but delicate chocolate cake topped off with a perfect espresso. And, of course, the house shot of grappa that comes with the bill is a sort of rite of passage here. Despite the overstuffed stomach and slightly hazy head from all the grog, the fresh air and splendid views upon exiting will leave the last long, heart-warming impression on you. Some of my pics below!
fish soup at Etoile
Dessert at Etoile
Tips to dining at Chalet Etoile: Book in advance, go after the normal lunch hour rush around 1:30pm (but make sure not to stay too long as you need to get back to the gondola by 4pm to catch it back to Zermatt)… and come with a hearty appetite.
Chalet Etoile (tel: 00 39 0166 940220)
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Other favorite, amazing restaurants worth visiting in Zermatt:
Chez Vrony +41 (0)27 967 25 52
Findlerhof (Franz & Heidi’s) + 41 (0)27 967 25 88
Restaurant Blatten +41 (0)27 967 20 96
zum See +41 (0)27 967 20 45
Gandegghut +41 (0)79 607 8868
